After two years of Covid-disrupted shows, the crowds were back in the French capital. With vibrant colours, slinky eveningwear and imaginative detailing on display, plus a cameo from Cher.
Rick Owens.
A 50ft jet of water erupted from the still fountain at Palais de Tokyo, a venue now synonymous with Owens, and one that his team continue to reinvent in bigger and better ways each season. Owens has always offered another way to do fashion, ‘a departure from tasteful and narrow conventions’, something he hopes encourages ‘open mindedness in other areas’. As with the SS23 menswear, the colour palette was noticeably brighter. Colours he called ‘jubilantly loud’ – Scarab beetle metallic green, yellow and shocking pink – reached a crescendo of extreme volume with a pair of tulle gowns.
Miu Miu.
Who wears the trousers? Not the Miu Miu woman next season. She’s so busy she forgot to put her skirt on – or maybe she left it off on purpose to show off her disco pants. The perfectly imperfect vibe of messy hair, tights pulled up over tops, coats over gym leggings, looks with elements missing and back-to-front bags with door keys dangling, suggested a frantic life most people can relate to. Miu Miu has reestablished itself as a bellwether for hot trends so you might want to think about those sequin knickers and stock up on sheer tights.
Loewe.
Jonathan Anderson built on the reductionist act he presented in January’smenswearto streamline this season’s women’s collection, putting the focus on individual garments. Dresses came as prints on simple silk shifts. The trompe-l’oeil tricks continued, a bag chain held up a drape on a silk dress, and Puzzle totes were supersized. To underscore the synergy between Loewe and art an installation of 21 cubes of colourful confetti by artist Lara Favaretto formed the set.
Vivienne Westwood.
After Vivienne Westwood’s death in December and a movingmemorialat the start of LFW, the Paris show was always going to be an emotional affair. Titled Tintwistle after the town she grew up in, the AW23 collection was a tribute to her and riffed on many of hergreatest hits– pirate boots, towering platforms, corsets and tartan. Past muses and family took to the runway including modelsSara Stockbridgeand Westwood’s granddaughter Cora Corré who wore the bridal finale look. Westwood’s widower Andrea Kronthaler was visibility emotional as he took his bow alongside Corré.
The Row.
First let’s talk about the show’s catering, an insight into the exquisitely minimal world of the Olsens. They gave us pears with the tip of the stalk dipped in red sealing wax and hunks of dark chocolate served on raw edge white linen napkins. Chic entertaining tricks to steal. Back to the fashion, which was heavy on suiting and luxe outerwear in a muted palette of black, ivory, navy and khaki. There was one splash of red (like the pear wax) via a cashmere coat, clutched closed, with matching red leather opera gloves.
Givenchy.
Givenchy went grown up and glamorous, falling in line with January’s menswear collection that utilised the haute couture atelier for sharply tailored looks that opened the show. The focus here was on a strong shoulder, nipped waist and magnified volume in coats and blazers. Eveningwear was refined and elegant. A series of black dresses, one with a bodice made of strings of pearls, riffed on the house’s iconic LBD and pearls look wore by Audrey Hepburn. Two dresses featured a fish print sketched by Hubert de Givenchy and a hit of colour came in three emerald green dresses.
Balenciaga.
All eyes were on creative director Demna atBalenciagafollowing a controversialcampaignin November featuring children holding bondage clad teddybears. Here he let the clothes do the talking. Gone were the gimmicks and viral clickbait accessories (save for one huge handbag tucked under a model’s arm). Instead he experimented with silhouettes via inflatable forms sewn into linings of a hoodie, a biker jacket, and tracksuit. Voluminous draped and gathered dresses in silk georgette hid bags underneath asymmetric swags. Tailoring was deconstructed with trousers remade into coats.
